Unlike
the Subterranean termite, dry wood termites do not require any contact with the
soil. They live in undecayed wood with a low moisture content.
Description:
Drywood
termites are in distinct forms or castes - reproductives, workers, and
soldiers. Each performs a separate biological function. Only the reproductive
dry wood termites are winged (4 wings).
Their
are no workers in the dry wood termite group - instead the young reproductives
and soldiers serve as workers until they mature. The vast majority in the dry
wood termite colony is the worker caste and the workers, and the reproductives
have chewing mouthparts especially adapted for chewing wood. In dry wood
termites, it is the workers who do the wide-spread destruction. The soldiers
have powerful mandibles to attack their enemies (usually ants).
Male
and Female reproductives up to 1/2 inch long. Drywood termites have bodies soft
and cylindrical in shape, usually pale brown in color; six-legged; they have
compound eyes and chewing type mouthparts. During the winged stage, there are
four equal size wings that extend longer than the body by 1/8-1/4 inch. Drywood
Termites - Soldier 3/8 inch;
Diet:
Wood
and occasionally other cellulose materials. They eat wood in houses, utility poles,
furniture and dying trees. They can not digest the cellulose directly. They
have other microorganisms (protozoans and bacteria) in their stomachs that help
break down the cellulose that then can be digested by their metabolism.
Habitat:
Drywood
termites live in small social colonies in dry wood. They mate and fly to new
dry wood areas; enter a small hole in the wood and start to form a colony. In
the first year, colony size may be only around 50. After four years, there may
be as many as 700 individual dry wood termites in one colony. At this time, the
colony may swarm to start the cycle over again. After 15 years, the dry wood
termite colony will have grown to approximately 3,000 individuals. Drywood
termites do not need a source of water and live off of the water that is
produced from the digestion of the cellulose.
Drywood
termites infest dry, undecayed wood. This includes structural lumber as well as
dead limbs of native trees and shade and orchard trees, utility poles, posts,
and lumber in storage.
The
Drywood termites variety has a low moisture requirement and can tolerate dry
conditions for prolonged periods. They remain entirely above ground and do not
connect their nests to the soil. Piles of their fecal pellets, which are
distinctive in appearance, may be a clue to their presence.
From
these areas, winged reproductives seasonally migrate to nearby buildings and
other structures usually on sunny days during fall months.
Drywood
termites are usually found in the humid coastal and subtropical regions. These
include California, Hawaii, Florida, Arizona, South and North Carolina, New
Mexico, Texas, Alabama, Mississippi, Louisiana and Puerto Rico). They usually
infest attic spaces or exterior wood members exposed to them when they swarm in
early spring or summer.
Typical
signs of drywood termites infestation include:
Shed
wings
Ejected
pellets
Galleries
inside wood are typical signs of a dry wood termite infestation.
Swarming
ants are many times confused with dry wood termites, but their differences are
easy to recognize. At: Differences between ants and termites , you will find a
list and chart showing you the difference.
Piles
of their fecal pellets, which are distinctive in appearance, may be a clue to
their presence. The fecal pellets of dry wood and damp woody termites
Fecal
pellets of damp wood and dry wood termites are elongate (about 0.03 inch long)
with rounded ends and have six flattened or roundly depressed surfaces
separated by six longitudinal ridges.
Recommendations
for treatment with drywood termites:
PO
Treatment for drywood termites consists of:
Structural
fumigation: A certified pest control operator provides structu . The entire
building is covered tightly with a fumigation cover and a sulfuryl
fluoride(Vikane), or methyl bromide gas is fumigated.
Direct
Wood Treatment (Spot treatments:
To prepare for use of a liquid, aerosol, or dust formulation, drill hol into the infested timbers through the termite galleries. Use a 1/2 " drill in larger timbers and smaller drills elsewhere. Termite insecticide is dispersed through the galleries thru these holes. Drione Dust is labeled for such use. Dust should be injected in the galleries in small amounts.
Too much dust would clog the galleries, and the termites will wall off and isolate these areas.
To prepare for use of a liquid, aerosol, or dust formulation, drill hol into the infested timbers through the termite galleries. Use a 1/2 " drill in larger timbers and smaller drills elsewhere. Termite insecticide is dispersed through the galleries thru these holes. Drione Dust is labeled for such use. Dust should be injected in the galleries in small amounts.
Too much dust would clog the galleries, and the termites will wall off and isolate these areas.
When
treating limited infestations, aerosols like Phantom Aerosol and Drione dust may be
used. If you inject a water-based insecticide in a wooden beam, it may produce
a favorable site for decay fungi. From: UC Pest Management Guidelines - Drywood Termites,
you will find information on detection, whole structure vs. spot treatments,
eliminating existing infestations, whole structure treatments and long-term
preventive treatments.
Because
of their ability to live in wood without soil contact, non subterranean
termites, like the dry wood termite, powder post beetles, or damp wood
termites, are frequently carried in infested furniture and other wooden objects
into geographical areas where they are not normally found.
As
the name implies, dry wood termites establish in dry, sound wood that may have
as little as 3 percent moisture content. Drywood termites are not dependent
upon a constant moisture supply as are the subterranean termite types.
One
of the common symptoms of dry wood termites attack is the accumulation of tiny,
straw-colored fecal pellets inside or beneath infested furniture. These pellets
shift from small holes in the surface of infested wood or are pushed out
through small round openings maintained by the dry wood termites for this
purpose. The hard fecal pellets have six distinct, concave surfaces. The
presence of pellets does not prove damaged wood is currently infested, as
pellets continue to sift from furniture for many years after dry wood termites
are controlled or die. However, large, consistent accumulations of pellets are
a convincing sign the termites are still active.
If
the furniture is untreated, use Timbor or Boracare.
Spray
and allow it to penetrate the wood. It will last the life of the wood and kill
the active beetles. If the wood is painted or varnished, you will need to strip
the finish to use either one of these products. Drywood Termites and Powder
post beetles can be killed by either extreme heating or freezing. It would need
1.5 hours in a heated chamber of 150°F or 4 hours in a chamber of 140°F. You
can also use freezing temperatures to kill these insects. Exposure to
-4°Fdegrees F for seven days will kill them. You will need to take care that
either extreme of temperature would not damage the article.
Winged damp wood termite
Dampwood
termites don't require contact with the soil to obtain moisture, but wood with
a high degree of moisture is needed. They are usually associated with wood
decay. Because of their high moisture requirements, they most often are found
in cool, humid areas along the coast.
Pacific
damp wood termites (at times called a "rotten wood termite") is a
major pest at low altitudes along the coastal areas of California, Washington
and Oregon.
Dampwood
termites winged reproductives are dark brown with brown wings. Soldiers have a
flattened brown or yellowish brown head with elongated black or dark brown
mandibles. Nymphs are cream-colored with a characteristic spotted abdominal
pattern caused by food in their intestines.
Dampwood
termites nest in wood buried in the ground. In nature, they are commonly found
in tree stumps and fallen tree branches. In your home, the most likely areas to
find them would be an older wood deck, leaky roof eaves, leaky showers or tubs,
or substructures with inadequate ventilation or plumbing leaks.
The
Dampwood termite is much larger than the subterranean and dry wood termites,
measuring in at 3/8 to 3/4 of an inch. They can swarm periodically throughout
the year, and it is common to see the swarming reproductives caught in spider
webs next to exterior lights since they are instinctively attracted to light.
The
work of the colony is done by the immature soldiers or reproductives, there is
no worker caste. Dampwood termites swarms are small.
They
produce a fecal pellet similar to dry wood termite, but it is slightly larger
and has a more irregular shape. Damage in wood can be identified by a velvety
appearance in the galleries.
Dampwood
termites produce distinctive fecal pellets that are rounded at both ends,
elongate, but lacking clear longitudinal ridges common to dry wood termite
pellets; flattened sides are noticeable.
The
Nevada damp wood termites are slightly smaller and darker than the Pacific
species; reproductives are about 3/4 inch long.
The
Nevada damp wood termite occurs in the higher, drier mountainous areas of the
Sierras where it is an occasional pest in mountain cabins and other forest
structures; it also occurs along the northern California coast. It differs from
the Pacific damp wood in being subterranean in "habit". It attacks
only moist wood. This termite is of horticultural importance because it
frequently attacks the underground parts on shrubs andd young trees. It often
occurs in citrus groves. It is also found in fence posts, baseboards and door
frames of buildings. Flights occur in July and August in evenings after rains.
The
Florida damp wood termite is found in the extreme southeastern counties of
Florida and the Keys. It lives naturally in damp( but solid) logs near salt
water and is a common pest of buildings in this limited area. It is not
subterranean by nature, although it may enter logs beneath the soil.
Control
of Dampwood Termites:
Chemical
treatment may be not necessary for the control of damp wood termites. Since the
damp wood termite requires wood with a high moisture content, correction of the
moisture source is necessary. This normally means replacing the existing
infested and saturated wood in conjunction with elimination of the moisture
source.
Common
correction methods:
Increase
the ventilation in the affected area, reducing the moisture and repair leaky
showers and plumbing.
Make
sure you have proper drainage.
Construction
needs to be designed to avoid contact of wood and soil.
If
the damp wood is not accessible to be removed, treatment of the soil with an
effective insecticide or termite baiting systems would be necessary.
In
this section we will discuss four types of Powderpost beetles in four families:
Lyctidae, Bostrichidae, Anobiidae, and Cerambycidae. Adults do little damage;
it is the larvae that do the major part of the damage.They go through a
complete metamorphosis: adults, eggs, larvae, and pupae.
True
Powderpost Beetles(Lyctidae):
The
adults are very small, less than 1/4" in size. They are flattened and
reddish-brown to black in color. Larvae are white, cream colored, c shaped with
dark brown heads. Larvae create tunnels in the wood and become pupae. As
adults, they bore out through the wood, pushing a fine powdery dust out.The
shape of their holes are round , about 1/32-1/16 pinholes.
They
attack hardwoods depositing their eggs. They can attack bamboo(technically a
grass), but because of the large pores they will attack. Their diet is starch,
sugar and protein in the sapwood of hardwoods Wood that is less than 6%
moisture content is seldom attacked.The life cycle averages one year to
complete.This wood-boring beetle is the most widespread in the United States.
Many times infestations are built into structures from infested lumber.They can
reinfest.
Lycid
damage is characterized by:
Presence
of extremely fine, flour-like powder falling from the surface holes.
The
frass left by other wood borers usually contains pellets has a course texture
and a tendency to stick together.
When
inspecting damage, be sure to distinguish old damage from active beetle
infestations.
Recently
formed holes, and frass(sawdust like) are light in color and clear in
appearance; old holes and frass are dark in color.
False
Powderpost Beetle (Bostrichidae)
False
Powderpost Beetles are larger than other families of powderpost beetles, so
their exit holes are larger. These holes do not contain frass, but the
galleries do. The frass is tightly packed, tends to stick together and is meal
like( contains no pellets)
The
adults are 1/8-to 1-inch long, cylindrical, and reddish brown to black. The
adults bore into the wood to lay eggs, leaving a hole larger that 1/8 inch,
usually in wood less than ten years old.
The
larvae are curved and wrinkled. Their diet is dependent on the starch in the
wood, they are more common in softwood , but can attack hardwoods. They require
6-30% moisture content in the wood and complete the average life cycle in one
year.
Most
of the hardwoods attacked are not those commonly found used for interior
floors, woodwork or trim. Most of this species does not reinfest wood after it
is seasoned, so the damage is limited to that inflicted by one generation.
However, the speed of the damage can be considerable. Most of the time they do
not reinfest wood after it has been seasoned. They are often found in oak,
firewood, and furniture.
Anobiid
Powderpost Beetle (Anobiidae)- Furniture and Deathwatch Beetles
The
furniture beetle is found mostly in the eastern half of the United States, and
it infests structural timbers as well. The Death-watch beetle is found
throughout the United States. It attacks building timbers in poorly ventilated
areas where moisture tends to collect.
The
name"Death watch" comes from the ticking sound that the adult makes
inside infested wood that is audible during a still night. It is a mating call.
The
insect is a common pest in the southeastern United States in crawl space
timbers. Infestations can become so severe, that loss of structural strength to
sills, joists, and subflooring occurs.
The
Adults are 1/8-1/4 inch long. They are red to dark brown in color, and their
shaped is usually oval. The adults lay their eggs in the cracks and crevices of
the seasoned wood. As soon as they hatch, larvae burrow into the wood where
they live and tunnel for a year or more.
The
larvae form tunnels in both softwoods and hardwoods They require 13-30%
moisture content. The larvae are slightly curved and wrinkled, with tiny hairs
on the body.
Their
holes are round 1/16-1/8 inches. They can digest cellulose from the wood. They
are inclined to the softwoods , for this reason, they are common in crawl
spaces and basements , infesting the pine used as framing lumber.
The
powder outside the holes (frass) is fine to coarse, many times with small
pellets. The life cycle averages 1-3 years.
They
commonly reinfest crawl space areas that are poorly ventilated, and humidity is
absorbed in the wood.
Old House Borer (from the family Cerambycidae)
The
Old House Borer is one of the most common from this family, with it's larvae
hollowing out galleries in seasoned softwood (pine). It is found in older
buildings but is more frequent in newer buildings, (in houses less than ten
years old). The adults are brownish-black to black, slightly flattened and
about 3/4-1 inch long. The average life cycle is usually one to three years,
but can take up to twelve years if nutritional and environmental conditions are
unfavorable. Because of the long life cycle, reinfesting the wood it may take
years before you see any structural damage.
The
exit holes are about 1/4-3/8-inch in diameter, but the damage may have occurred
for several years before spotting such holes. They can digest cellulose.
When
the wood has been infested with fungi, the larval development is faster. Their
powder (frass) in the tunnels are like sawdust , tightly packed.
Inspection
for Wood Boring Beetles
Inspect
periodically all exposed wood surfaces and probe them for evidence of internal
damage.
Evidence
of attack is more common in attics, crawl spaces, unfinished basements and
storage areas.
To
be certain that the infestation is active(not old damage or old frass), there
should be fresh frass the color of newly sawed wood, or live larvae or adults
in the wood.
Control
and Recommendations:
The
first thing to do is reduce the moisture content, to a proper ventilation to
less than 20%.Moisture meters can be used to determine the moisture level in the
wood. Central heat, vapor barriers, and good ventilation can help control
moisture.
If
practical..remove infested wood. If not,use residaul borate insecticides.
Recommended
products are two borate insecticides:
Timbor is a powder that mixes with water. One and 1/2
lbs mixed with one gallon of water and sprayed to the surface area of in
infestation. When sprayed it penetrates the entire wood, where it will remain
for several years. An alternative to Timbor is Boracare
Boracare: Boracare is a liquid borate that penetrates
faster initially than the Timbor for first few hours but is equal after that.
Timbor is considerabley cheaper per gallon use.
Appearance:
Carpenter
ants are quite large, from 1/4 o 3/8" long; dark brown to black, but some
may have a red or yellowish coloration. The usual carpenter ant is large and
black, but you can have the Florida Carpenter Ant, which is smaller with a
range in colors; yellow, red-brown or black.
For
more information: Carpenter
Ants
Diet:
They
eat a variety of plant and animal foods and sweets. These ants will also feed
on other insects. They do not digest wood.
Biology:
Being
social insects,they have different forms of "castes" in their
colonies. Mature colonies have winged a nd wingless queens, winged males, two
sizes of wingless workers, and immature stages(eggs, larvae, and pupae).
They
swarm and mate during the springtime.
Swarming
generally occurs after three-six years,when a colony contains 3,000 or more
ants.
A
single queen starts a new colony.
Damage
can occur before a homeowner is aware of the presence of carpenter ants. It
takes a while to build up the colony in population before you may take notice
of foraging ants or swarmers.
Carpenter
ant colonies inside homes may release swarms indoors.
Carpenter
ants in the house during the winter months or winged carpenter ants indoors at
any time of year is a sign that they have a nest somewhere in the house.
If
it is just a few workers, seen during the summer months, more likely they are
simply foraging from the outside; entering and exiting.
A
carpenter ant colony may contain a main nest and one or
more"satellite" nests. The main nest contains the queen, eggs and
larvae, and workers. Ants in these "satellite" nests are the ones
that normally do structural damage to homes.
During
the winter months, the ones outside are inactive. The indoor nest can remain
active, but at a reduced rate.
Habits:
They
are nocturnal. There activity peaks between 8:00 p.m. and 4 a.m.Their ideal
temperature for habitation is between 71 degrees to 74 degrees F. It would be
advantageous to inspect at these times and temperature conditions.
They
usually nest outside in moist wood or partially decayed wood in that they
prefer the "softened wood" to hollow out their nests called "galleries".
These
galleries are quite clean and have a sandpaper appearance.
(Termite
galleries are rough looking in comparison.)
Wood,
which has been damaged by carpenter ants contains no mud-like material, as is
the case with termites.
Nests
are especially common in such places as moist, hollow spaces, like the wall
void behind dishwashers.
Nests
are usually found in areas where water leakage could occur, around bathtubs,
sinks, roof leaks, poorly flashed chimneys, or poorly sealed windows or door
frames.
Outdoor
nest can occur in stumps, hollow logs, fence posts or in dead portions of
standing trees. However cracks and crevices may be used to start nests in sound
wood.
They
may establish nests in some different locations. It is important to understand that
you can have both inside and outside nests. They construct two different kinds
of nests: parent colonies which, when mature, contain an egg-laying queen,
brood and 2000 or more worker ants, and satellite colonies which may have large
numbers of worker ants, but no queen, eggs or larvae. The carpenter ants inside
a home may have originated from the parent nests located outdoors in a tree
stump, timber or woodpile for example. They may also originate from one or more
satellite nests hidden behind a wall in the kitchen or bathroom, or perhaps
from wood dampened by a roof leak in the attic. Although large colonies can
cause structural damage, the damage is not normally as serious as termite
damage.
How
to detect galleries:
Many
times you can see "sawdust" near these carpener ant galleries.
This
"sawdust" or "frass", are shredded fragments of wood that
has been ejected from the galleries. This is a good indication that a nest is
nearby. But sometimes this evidence is not seen, taking a screwdriver, probing the
wood may reveal the excavated galleries.
Also,
you could take the blunt end of the screwdriver to tap along baseboards, and
other wood surfaces listening for the hollow sound of damaged wood.
If
a nest is nearby, many times the carpenter ants will respond by making a
"rustling" sound within the nest, similar to crinkling of cellophane.
Foraging
Carpenter Ants from the outside:
Many
times the ones that you see inside your home are simply foraging for food, you
won't see large numbers typically. Foraging ants can travel 100 yards from a
nest to food and can be simply found wandering throughout your house. However,
there can be indoor nest found in hollow doors, window sills, behind
baseboards, or other natural hollow areas. Their damage usually indicates water
damage and wood decay.
Recommended
products and treatments
PERIMETER
TREATMENT, with an non repellent residual insecticide such as
Taurus SC or FUSE would be a wise choice, stopping
any new populations and other invading pests such as roaches, spiders, etc. You
may spray Taurus twice a year, and Fuse may be sprayed up to four times a year.
Spray around the foundation of the structure, up around 1-2 feet (depending on
which insecticide you choose) as well as around the ground floor doors and
windows. Both these products are non-repellent insecticides. These
insecticides can not be detected by the ants, so they can not avoid it as they
cross over it.
Using
ant bait is another alternative. First
inspect the ant activity then place a sugar based bait, like Optigard and a protein based bait like
Advance 375 A along their trails. The
foraging ants will find the baits and feed it to the colonies; distributing the
bait to the rest of the colony. You may combine a non-repellent insecticide
with baits in the same location.
Ant
trails and baiting
Inspect
wooden structures associated with high moisture, where there may be water
damage-producing softened wood. They like windows and door frames and sills, as
well as tub enclosure walls, and kitchen and bath plumbing walls. Many times
you can observe carpenter ants more after sunset, when there activity is
increased, particularly in the spring and summer months. You may want to use a
flashlight to observe any obvious trails and patterns.
Bait
in these areas.
Possible
steps for Carpenter Ant prevention:
Correct
moisture problems:, roof leaks, plumbing leaks. Cut back tree limbs or branches
that could serve as a bridge to your structure. Seal cracks and openings around
the foundation, especially where utility pipes and wires enter from the
outside. Firewood needs to be stacked away from the house, elevated off the
ground if possible. They love to nest in firewood.
